A good cocktail is all in the shaking, as one Tokyo bar owner
took great delight in explaining to me during my recent
visit to Japan.
Exactly the same ingredients, shaken in the same quantities but in
different ways, can either come together in a delightful marriage,
greater than the sum of its parts, or fail miserably as each element
fights for control.
Put together nearly 20 distillery managers, whisky writers, brand
ambassadors and private bottlers, add the haunting tones of Islay’s
most famous chanteuse, and the result is equally unpredictable.
Fortunately the Whisky Magazine cocktail shaker was in fine form
on the day.
As soon as panellers were led out into the Opening Seminar to the
strains of Stayin’Alive, participants knew they were in for something
a little different this year.
The impending retirement (what, again?) of the ever-popular Iain
Henderson provided a wonderful opportunity for the assembled
gentlemen to honour, praise, or in Jim McEwan’s case, outright abuse him, and was that really Bowmore’s Christine Logan, complete in full geisha outfit, carrying but a giant Laphroaig
warehouse birthday cake?
This year was bigger than last, with over 1,000 participants on the
day choosing from a series of 16 Masterclasses, but, more important
than the basic statistics was the quality and unique nature of some of
these sessions.
In an attempt to satisfy what is perhaps the most demanding
whisky audience anywhere in the world, this year’s programme
included a joint session by Dr. Bill
Lumsden of Glenmorangie and The
Macallan’s David Robertson on
wood management, no less than
five independent bottlers comparing
drams in an ‘Independents’ Day’ class,
and Talisker’s Alastair Robertson
pairing the Classic Malts with a line-up
of sushi.
Competition amongst the panellers to produce that something
special was very high after the exceptional Brian Morrison
Masterclass last year.
The Glenlivet introduced cask samples and an example of the
Cellar Collection range, Springbank’s
Euan Mitchell offered cask samples of
the cult Longrow and the as-yet
unreleased Hazelburn, but the honours
remain with Bowmore, whose Kenneth
Mackay offered tastings of not just one, but
all three of the new 1964 releases.
Perhaps the most ambitious venture and
certainly the most historical, as anyone who
knows the traditional suspicion with which
Japan’s ‘big four’ have viewed each other will testify, was the ‘Ultimate Japanese Blending’ class.
Kirin, Suntory, Nikka and Mercian were each invited to submit
two of their whiskies from a list of eight different types, comprising
six single malt styles and two single grains. These were then
distributed amongst the group and a blender from each company
came up with his ideal blend from these eight ingredients.
The resulting four blends were bottled in 100ml bottles and
distributed to each of the 165 Masterclass participants. Each blender
in turn was then given an opportunity to explain the ‘how’ and the‘why’ behind his blend, with Whisky Magazine’s Michael Jackson
providing his own judgements and insights.
Live in Tokyo very much centres on the Masterclasses, but this
takes nothing away from the Producers’ Tasting Room. This year
there were 35 booths, including an entry from Suntory for ‘the
longest bar in the world’ competition! Participants had the
opportunity to taste many, many rare and limited products, as well
as the regular products from each company.
The Whisky Magazine shop did a steady trade in back issues,
Michael Jackson’s books, Norma Munro’s CDs, and a special
bottling of 27-year-old Caol Ila to mark what is now the fifth year of
the magazine.
After nearly 10 hours of dramming,
everyone ran out of steam a little at
last year’s closing seminar. This year
it was decided it would be better to
have all of the panellers let their hair
down a little by finishing with a
Whisky Party.
Against a backdrop of an old back-and-white video of Whisky
Galore!, more than 300 people mingled with our whisky guests,
entertained first by Otoe-san and her saxophone, and then by
Norma Munro, who had flown out all the way from Islay especially
for the occasion.
Norma had the stage to herself for the first half of her piece and
mesmerised the audience with her delightful vocals, but the
panellers were determined to have the last say and, led by a certain‘Laddie, stormed the stage.
‘Norma and the Whiskymen’ are unlikely ever to get top billing at
the Tokyo Budokan, but what a climax! It is doubtful if Flower of
Scotland or Loch Lomond have ever
sounded like this, or ever will again,
but it was clear at this stage of the
evening just how harmoniously those
disparate cocktail ingredients had
come together.
The only way to cap this was a
giant rendition of Auld Lang Syne; a perfect finish to an educational,
sociable and fun day of whisky.
Our thanks must go again to the staff of Aoyama Diamond Hall, who
must already be dreading next year’s event, and to Virgin Atlantic Airways
for their generous draw prize and their smooth transfer of many of the
panellers from the United Kingdom to Tokyo. And, of course, a big shout out to the Whisky Magazine Tokyo
Massive: David Croll, Noriko Kakuda and team, without whom none of this
would have been possible.
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