Whisky enthusiasts came from far and wide to the sell-out Whisky Live London 2003, helping to make it the biggest and best yet.

It’s Friday night in London, getting dark, and a queue snakes out from the venue, relaxed, happy and expectant. All that’s missing is a tout wandering along the line saying “Macallan Fine and Rare tickets; buy or sell.”

Okay, it’s not quite the Rolling Stones, but right now, in this part of town, it’s the best show going. Whisky Live 2003 is alive and truly kicking.

In the event, I don’t get in to The Macallan. The huge demand for one of the top Masterclasses of the two day whisky mega-fest means that on this occasion the press pass does not guarantee a fast-track to the front, and I make way for a couple of whisky-lovers who have travelled here from northern Europe.

But not before chatting to an overseas visitor who has spent his entire first day at Masterclasses and is planning his second day’s tastings. Today he has tasted virtually nothing in the main hall, he reveals, because he wants to make sure he has worked out the best route round for the following day.

He brings out a hand-drawn floor-plan and points out the path he will trek. He will visit his favourite and third favourite together first of all, he reveals, because his second favourite is further down the room.

If all goes to plan, he will have covered the lot by tea time on Saturday, and have time to return to his first loves. Or, he says conspiratorially, to slot in a visit to something he hadn’t planned for, but discovered during the day.

With that, the doors open, the Macallan stampede starts, and I return to the main hall, where a rare Chivas is waiting. Hell, it’s 7.05pm and it’s been a long day …

Whisky Live 2003 was a triumph. It picked up where last year’s event left off, stepped on the gas and shot onwards, selling out this year at the Royal Horticultural Halls in Victoria, London.

And if ever there were a riposte to sceptical commentators who see whisky as part of a dying brown spirits market, it was here, during our two days of tasting the world’s finest whiskies/whiskeys.

That the sector has a dynamic and vibrant underbelly, and is slowly but surely attracting a new generation of curious younger drinkers, particularly from mainland Europe, is there for anyone to see.

Whisky Live 2003 was made up of two areas; the main tasting room, and the Masterclasses, held in a separate building.

With some of the finest whiskies on the planet in the same room, visitors were free to wander with their complimentary tasting glass, and sample to their hearts’ content. It made for impressive viewing – a cross-section of the public having the chance to quiz the experts on their products in an environment that increasingly resembled a relaxed and friendly evening social.

The amount of work that goes into such an event is truly staggering, but with the cream of Scotland, Ireland, Japan and Kentucky on show, nobody could fail to be impressed or to find something they enjoyed.

Meanwhile, yours truly had come up with a cunning plan to further his limited but growing knowledge of whisky and appear to be working at the same time. I escorted a succession of journalists around the room, helping them to select drams that might appeal, and professionally ensuring that each sample was perfect by tasting a small amount myself.

One such journalist, stung into action by Michael Jackson – who admitted that in another life he had once quite unbelievably muttered the words ‘I don’t like whisky’ –
proceeded to overcome his own dislike of the drink.

After just half an hour, he came away admitting that he had found three Scotch whiskies that he would be only too happy to sip in a social environment. Unsurprising, really; it was that sort of event.

Masterclasses

Detailing some of the finer points of production, Jimmy explained that Wild Turkey is distilled at low proof to conserve flavours – meaning higher production costs but better flavour. And Jimmy refuses point blank to use genetically-modified grain.

He explained that the white oak used for the barrels comes from Arkansas, Missouri and east Kentucky – due to its good fibre and coarseness. The oaks are felled between 40 and 100 years old.

The class undertook a vertical tasting comprising new make, 2, 4, 6 and 8-yearolds, followed by Wild Turkey 101 rye. The sweet vanilla and caramel tastes were ever more clearly defined moving up the tasting, topped off with the complex, unusual, bold 101 rye.

And the icing on the cake was a gift for each audience member of a bottle of Wild Turkey 8-Year-Old signed by Jimmy – a precious and unique souvenir given by a unique man.

The Classic Malts class, led by Jim Beveridge and Kenny Gray, showcased exceptional aged malts that have survived into old age mainly through luck, having been intended for blending purposes, but passed over due to a period of overproduction in the 1970s. Jim and Kenny explained the history of the whiskies and their distilleries whilst guiding participants through a remarkable tasting.

The first sample, a Port Ellen 24-year-old, was fresh, minty, salty, with smokiness and a honey sweetness on the palate. The Dalwhinnie 39-year-old had kept its character remarkably well for an old whisky, and was not too woody and very lively. A sweet but salty Oban 32-year-old was followed by a powerful Lagavulin 25-year-old, the oldest whisky to be released from this distillery in 25 years.

The audience was horrified to hear that this cask had probably been intended for use in White Horse blended whisky. The Talisker 20-year-old was all the more unusual for having been matured in a sherry cask.

Brand ambassador Jens Tholstrup promised the audience a tasting of the more unusual products from William Grant & Sons. This included the spicy, buttery Havana Reserve 21-year-old, matured using barrels selected from a small Cuban rum distillery.

Class participants were the first members of the general public to taste the oaky, ruity
Glenfiddich 1973, and The Balvenie 1972 was a sweeter, peatier and quite woody dram.

Grain whisky tends to be regarded as unexciting, but not so the Girvan tasted in this class: the vanilla, toffee and fruit notes made for a delicious tasting experience.

Another bonus was the unusual Caoran (‘peat ember’) Reserve – Glenfiddich matured in ex-Islay barrels to replicate the taste of 1940s/’50s Glenfiddich, when peat was used in the furnaces due to coal shortages. The fruity, peaty whisky is only available in Britain due to limited stocks. The Edradour/Signatory class was presented by Andrew Symington, in blue distillery boiler suit, and Edradour‘s distillery manager, ‘retired’ Iain Henderson.

More unusual whiskies tasted included a Laphroaig 1990 port wood finish, which had picked up pink grapefruit shade after only four months in port pipes, a 1978 Port Ellen port wood finish, a 1969 Springbank and Andrew’s first offering from his new distillery: an Edradour 10-year-old.

Your Feedback

Nigel Lloyd, Henley-on-Thames “This is the second year I’ve come. It’s a fabulous occasion. The courtesy and knowledge I’ve encountered has been very encouraging. It’s been a lovely day. Everyone is very helpful. The facilities are fantastic.”

Kim Morello, with Jeremy Pound, Cheltenham “This is the third year we’ve been. It’s been great. We love the Van Winkles!”

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